CARTIER. A gem-set, enamel and mother-of-pearl gold minaudière

Of stylised Egyptian influence, the eight-sided rectangular-shaped gold box, accented with black enamel contours, the main body embellished with undulating white enamel lines and mother-of-pearl detail, each domed terminal composed of carved coral flower-heads set with a seed pearl or a circular-cut diamond, amidst cabochon emeralds, each end opening to reveal powder compartments, the main body opening one side to reveal a compartment for cigarettes and the other with a lipstick holder and unfolding mirror, circa 1925, signed Cartier and numbered, French assay marks for gold, maker's mark. Literature: Cf. Hans Nadelhoffer, Cartier Jewelers Extraordinary, Thames & Hudson 1984, P. 210, Plate 50, for a copy of the original drawing from the Cartier Archives. Re-edition 2007, P.210 for a full page version of the drawing. Cf. Judy Rudoe, Cartier 1900-1939, Harry N. Abrams Inc. 1997, P.315 Design 268 for description and copy of the original design from the Cartier Stock Design Record Book. Cf. Calouste Gulbenkian Foundation Lisbon, Cartier 1899 – 1949 Le Parcours D’un Style, Skira 2007, P.202 Drawing 18 for a copy of the original drawing from the Cartier Archives. This publication was made for an exhibition of the same name featuring this drawing. Cf. Vitra Design Museum Berlin, Cartier Design Viewed by Ettore Sottsass, Skira 2002, Cahier Des Designs No.42.

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