Each designed as a coral button surmount to a bifurcating black enamel line wrapping around an annular coral hoop, through which is draped a flexible line of single-cut diamonds, each end suspending a deep red coral (coralium rubrum) drop embellished with a black enamel cap, circa 1925, maker's mark for Maynier et Pinçon. Dimensions: 5.75cm long x 1.3cm wide
Note: There is a passage in Laurence Mouillefarine's tome on Lacloche that gives a glimpse into this workshop and its production:
"The name Maynier et Pinçon appeared in Boucheron's showcases at the 1925 Exposition, alongside that of Marzo and Linzeler et Marchak, which goes to show that their jewelry pieces were in demand. In the 1930s this workshop was still delivering brooches with a floral theme to Jacques Lacloche. Another noteworthy feat: it was here the the illustrious Pierre Sterlé, who was the nephew of one of the partners, was trained."
Note: These earrings are a beautiful example of the evolutions of the mid 1920s to the end of the decade. They are flexible and light, embracing the new-found delicacy of articulation enabled by advances in platinum alloying and manipulation. By the end of the decade the length of earrings was to reach ever daring proportions but, at the beginning of the 1920s whilst the creations were pendulous they retained easier proportions. The colour-palette of the fine jewellery world was expanded. Semi-precious stones were embraced such as aquamarines and topazes, but also enamelling, mother-of-pearl, jade, coral and onyx. Coral and onyx was a particularly popular combination for the avant-garde designs of the 1920s and often in stylised Chinese and Japanese motifs, perhaps in an echo of traditional red and black lacquering and enamelling techniques so admired from these parts during this same period. As mentioned above, the workshop responsible for these earrings was one with known associations to the great jewellery house Boucheron. Indeed, these earrings are very much in keeping with Boucheron's offerings during the mid 1920s. In 1925 they presented highly colourful (using coral, jade, malachite, onyx and other hard stones and semi-precious materials) voluminous jewels inspired by African and Oriental art amongst other influences. In 1927 the house created a red coral and onyx sautoir that suspended a red coral drop embellished with an onyx cap. Around the same time they created other earring designs with loops and drops, such as that in lapis lazuli and diamond referenced below which came up for auction in 2011 in Sotheby's New York.
Market Comparison: Sotheby's New York 14th April 2011, lot 166