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CASTELLANI
A 19th Century pear-shaped diamond pendant, 1840
Further images
Designed as a pear-shaped Very Light Pink diamond weighing 22.48 carats, mounted in gold-backed silver, within a foliate surround embellished with rose-, circular-, and cushion-cut diamonds, to a simple hook...
Designed as a pear-shaped Very Light Pink diamond weighing 22.48 carats, mounted in gold-backed silver, within a foliate surround embellished with rose-, circular-, and cushion-cut diamonds, to a simple hook system, attributed to Castellani, circa 1840. Length: 5.7cm, width: 3.8cm Weight 19.2 grams
Note:
When ancient intaglios or Renaissance rock crystal objects or other precious objects became chipped or a piece was missing, there was a traditional, and rather beautiful, solution - a piece of gold (or like this, silver) was folded into the crack or moulded to take the shape of the missing piece in order to save the object.
This stone would have been cut earlier than when it was mounted, and a natural inclusion in the material was worked around and resulted in an imperfect curve to the pear-shape - which is compensated for with the same technique as you can see in the bottom righthand corner.
As expert restorers and studiers of ancient jewels (famously the Campana Collection which is now predominantly in The Louvre) Castellani would have been well aware of this technique in the restoration of ancient gems and, whilst unusual in jewellery, it lends itself equally well to stones.
This is a beautiful example of a classic Golconda stone which tend to either be D colour or subtly pinkish or brownish in colour...as the GIA state "Type IIa pink diamonds are very rare in nature...Historically they were found in India (particularly from the Golconda region) and, in more recent time, most notably from Brazil and Africa." It's definitely a stone which makes you understand why historically the "water" of a diamond was talked about...these old stones have a particular play of light that's hard to describe or translate with digital means.
Note:
When ancient intaglios or Renaissance rock crystal objects or other precious objects became chipped or a piece was missing, there was a traditional, and rather beautiful, solution - a piece of gold (or like this, silver) was folded into the crack or moulded to take the shape of the missing piece in order to save the object.
This stone would have been cut earlier than when it was mounted, and a natural inclusion in the material was worked around and resulted in an imperfect curve to the pear-shape - which is compensated for with the same technique as you can see in the bottom righthand corner.
As expert restorers and studiers of ancient jewels (famously the Campana Collection which is now predominantly in The Louvre) Castellani would have been well aware of this technique in the restoration of ancient gems and, whilst unusual in jewellery, it lends itself equally well to stones.
This is a beautiful example of a classic Golconda stone which tend to either be D colour or subtly pinkish or brownish in colour...as the GIA state "Type IIa pink diamonds are very rare in nature...Historically they were found in India (particularly from the Golconda region) and, in more recent time, most notably from Brazil and Africa." It's definitely a stone which makes you understand why historically the "water" of a diamond was talked about...these old stones have a particular play of light that's hard to describe or translate with digital means.
Provenance
Princess Mary Althea Beatrix Doria Pamphilj,Princess Emily Augusta Doria Pamphilj,
Thence by descent.
