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Open a larger version of the following image in a popup: MAUBOUSSIN, A gem-set enamel and diamond bracelet, 1928

MAUBOUSSIN

A gem-set enamel and diamond bracelet, 1928
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Designed as three soft-cornered square-shaped plaques, each embellished with a pierced and carved jadeite annular centre of floral inspiration, within a blue enamel border superimposed by brilliant-cut diamond foliate detail...
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Designed as three soft-cornered square-shaped plaques, each embellished with a pierced and carved jadeite annular centre of floral inspiration, within a blue enamel border superimposed by brilliant-cut diamond foliate detail accented with black enamel, each with two ruby cabochons placed at different angles, between rectangular-shaped facetted milky chalcedony links, 1928, French assay marks for gold, in a case signed Mauboussin. Length: 18.5cm. Weight: 70.03 grams
 Accompanied by a certificate of authenticity from Mauboussin.

Notes: This bracelet perfectly displays the aesthetic Mauboussin was exploring in the years around the 1925 Exposition Internationale de Arts Decoratifs. Their designs were colourful and filled with stylised references to traditional Indian, Chinese (note the central pierced jadeite plaques in this bracelet) and Japanese motifs, with heavily-stylised floral elements that have been given geometric lines (the leaves accenting each corner of these jadeite links were repeated in many of their designs in this period), all in the new unlimited palette of the period that embraced the full spectrum of semi-precious stones and which it used in harmonious conjunction with the traditional precious stones of fine jewellery. This bracelet was made in a period of great creative fervour and revolution of aesthetics. For Mauboussin, like so many of the houses, it was also a period of great success and expansion. The world was opening up, technological advances seemed unlimited and the thirst for French-made goods insatiable...For many of the young men growing up in the jewellery world in this time, Modernity permeated all they did, this is seen in the ways they influenced the jewellery design of their houses but also in their outside interests. Mauboussin was no different and in the same year this bracelet was made Geroges Mauboussin's son, Pierre Mauboussin, (along with Louis Peyret), conceived and built a one-seater aeroplane, the PM-X, which beat many international records. Indeed after the 1929 financial crash, Pierre Mauboussin would leave the family jewellery business to Marcel Goulet and concentrate on his passion for aviation. Exciting jewels for exciting times!
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