Each designed as a stylised chandelier, composed of triangular-shaped diamonds, delicately-set with a bare-minimum of platinum, arranged to form geometric shapes, embellished with lines of baguette diamonds, 1920s, French assay...
Each designed as a stylised chandelier, composed of triangular-shaped diamonds, delicately-set with a bare-minimum of platinum, arranged to form geometric shapes, embellished with lines of baguette diamonds, 1920s, French assay marks for platinum, illegible maker's mark, unsigned. Total length of earring 8cm.
Note: Whilst echoes of the proportions and style of these earrings can be found in the designs of the famous Parisian jewellery houses during the 1920s, these earrings are incredibly avant-garde for their period. 'Fancy-cuts' were new to the beginning of the 20th Century and being explored by a few houses by the mid 1920s, most obviously by Mauboussin, Van Cleef & Arpels, Lacloche Frères and Janesich, but no other example of their exclusive use can be found. The other surprising element is the setting of these stones, which are set in a revolutionary way, with a seeming lack of metal holding the central diamonds in place. This is a concept that was perfected around 1930 when a few of the large Parisian jewellery houses vied for the claim to have invented mystery or invisible settings for stones. In spirit, these earrings are a marriage of the Edwardian delicacy and love of centrally-placed swing-set designs using minimal metalwork, and the geometry that would so dominate the 1930s and symbolise what we now call Art Deco. They are the issue of a feverishly productive and innovative period in French craftsmanship and design, one that we still idolise and feels surprisingly relevant today.
Julia Herrera y Herrera, V Condesa de la Mortera and I Duquesa de Maura (1884 - 1968)
Maria del Carmen Maura y Herrera, XX Duquesa de Medina Sidonia (1906-1946)