Of stylised fan design, composed of a single piece of rock crystal carved into radiating geometric segments, embellished with two rows of circular-cut diamonds to the tip and a circular-cut diamond-set arch to the centre, circa 1935, maker's mark for Groené et Darde, French assay marks for platinum and gold. 4.3cm wide, 4.2cm high
Note: Much has now been written about Suzanne Belperron and her name has been successfully plucked from relative obscurity to the forefront of vintage jewellery consciousness. She has become recognised for her very particular style, a style that was so unique she predicted she would not need to sign her jewels as those who knew her work would instantly recognise one of her jewels. And as it was once true within an international fashionable elite of the mid 20th century, so it is again once more. One of the pillars of this style was her extensive use of semi precious stones, in which she often embedded precious materials. Her visions were expertly realised by the lapidary Adrien Louart and the workshop Groëné et Darde. This brooch is a perfect example of her virtuoso use of rock crystal, a material she was evidently fond of as she used it in many of her designs. For this jewel it has been facetted as you would a diamond, and is used as the central element of the jewel which is then embellished by circular-cut diamonds (as is often the case with Belperron's jewels, and indeed many jewels of the period due to a shortage of materials, the diamonds are repurposed from a 19th Century jewel). The design is a variation of her 'fan' design and she made variations of this particular design too, each with a little difference. The clip brooch was one of the exciting evolutions of the 1930s, its versatility and endless reinvention appealed to the high fashion circles in which Belperron had her devotees.. worn around necklines - front and back, attached to the upturned rims of hats, practical fasteners, for gathering fabric at the waist or a scarf around the neck...the possibilities were endless and Belperron made many, in single and double-clip examples.Originally conceived during her time at René Boivin, Suzanne Belperron made many variations of the rock crystal and diamond fan motif which is now considered one of her most iconic designs. Examples of variations can be seen on many pages of the two books detailed below.
Literature: Cf: Corbett & Landrigan, Jewellery by Suzanne Belperron, Thames & Hudson ltd. 2015, P.43 for a full-page photo of similar clips in their original B. Herz box. Cf: Laurence Mouillefarine et Évelyne Possémé, Art Deco Jewellery, Thames & Hudson, P.230 for a drawing of a very similar brooch.